Centrolina at 10
Centrolina at 10
By: Donna D’Angelo
Tucked into the heart of ‘CityCenterDC’, Centrolina Mercato e Osteria recently celebrated its 10th anniversary—an impressive milestone for the flagship restaurant of six-time James Beard Award semifinalist Chef Amy Brandwein. Known for modern interpretations of regional Italian cuisine, Centrolina is defined by its seasonality, simplicity, and devotion to premium Mid-Atlantic seafood.
Seafood plays a starring role across the Centrolina menu. Diners can begin with elegant crudos, explore pasta like squid ink chitarra at lunch, and return for dinner for rich dishes such as pappardelle with shiso, ricotta, scallop, and bottarga. The grilled fish of the day, prepared with seasonal sides and a delicate touch, is a longtime favorite. Each dish reflects Brandwein’s ability to transform pristine ingredients into refined, approachable plates.
During the holidays, Centrolina’s Feast of the Seven Fishes is a seasonal highlight, with an all-new seafood menu crafted each year to honor Italian American tradition through a chef-driven, contemporary lens.
The restaurant is also home to a robust Italian market, an essential part of Brandwein’s original vision and a unique offering in the D.C. dining landscape. While she knew the ins and outs of running a restaurant, stepping into retail brought a new set of challenges—from managing inventory and pricing to scaling fish and sourcing specialty imports. But for Brandwein, it was worth it: the market became a way to extend her culinary ethos beyond the plate.
The space is stocked with the same high-quality fish featured on the menu, alongside pantry items that speak to the umami-rich flavors found in her cooking. Standout finds include Colatura di Alici, an anchovy-based Italian fish sauce aged in oak barrels, and Nonnata di Pesce, spicy marinated neonatal fish, which adds depth to her salmon tartare. Guests can also browse for Italian spicy soy sauce, imported peppers, and other hard-to-find regional specialties.
Centrolina continues to evolve. In addition to collaborative chef dinners, Brandwein hosts Stela, an intimate eight-course tasting menu in her private chef salon. Stela allows her to experiment beyond traditional Italian fare, often building menus around personal themes, ingredients, or memories. A recent example: homage to her Michigan childhood, featuring lake perch inspired by summers spent fishing with her stepmother. It is held most Fridays at 7 PM, the experience includes limited seating and an optional wine pairing.
Now ten years in, Centrolina remains a cornerstone of the D.C. culinary scene—anchored by a thoughtful seafood program, a commitment to ingredient-driven cooking, and a chef who continues to push boundaries while honoring her Italian roots.
